I've had this card since the age of 12. Never had the opportunity until now to get his RC signed. Thanks Matt for making this happen!!
Should You Grade the Card, the Autograph, or Both? A PSA Grading Guide for Sports Card Collectors
Grading signed sports cards can be confusing—even for experienced collectors. When submitting a card to PSA, you actually have multiple grading options, and the choice you make can significantly impact both value and buyer perception.
On this episode of The Power Sports Memorabilia Show, we break down:
- The different PSA grading options
- Why I’ve changed my stance on grading
- When grading both the card and the autograph makes sense
- How collectors may be leaving money on the table
If you collect or sell signed sports cards, this is information you need to understand.
The 4 PSA Grading Options Explained
When you submit a signed card to PSA, you can choose one of the following:
1. Authentication only (no grades)
2. Card grade only
3. Autograph grade only
4. Dual grading (card + autograph)
Many collectors don’t realize they have these choices—and choosing the wrong one can hurt resale value.
My Old Approach: Autograph Grade Only
For years, my strategy was simple:
- If the autograph looked like a PSA 10, I’d grade the auto
- I’d leave the card as Authentic
- No card grade listed
This approach was extremely common—mainly because everyone else was doing it.
Example: 1981 Topps Larry Bird
- Popular second-year card
- Rookie is too expensive for most collectors
- Often doesn’t grade gem mint
The logic was:
“Why show a PSA 7 when buyers only care about the autograph?”
So collectors (myself included) followed the crowd.
Why I Changed My Opinion on Grading Cards
Recently, I sold a 1981 Topps Larry Bird signed card that graded:
- PSA 7 (card)
- PSA 10 (autograph)
It sold for around $600.
Comparable cards with:
- Authentic card
- PSA 10 autograph
typically sell closer to $450–$500.
👉 That’s an extra $100+ simply by grading the card.
The Problem With “Authentic Only”
- You’re competing with dozens of identical listings
- No differentiation
- Buyers ask: “What do you think it would grade?”
That question alone tells you something important.
Collectors Want More Information
Modern buyers want transparency:
- Card condition
- Autograph quality
- Overall presentation
When a card is only labeled “Authentic,” many buyers:
- Assume the card is a 10
- Or feel uncertain about condition
- Or ask unnecessary follow-up questions
Grading removes the mystery.
What PSA Actually Grades
Card Grading Criteria
PSA evaluates four areas:
- Centering
- Corners
- Edges
- Surface
Autograph Grading Criteria
PSA looks for:
- No smudging
- No ink skips
- Clean flow
- No touching card edges
A clean, centered signature earns a PSA 10 Auto.
PSA vs PSA/DNA (Important Distinction)
Some slabs only say “Trading Card” and authenticate the autograph only.
That means:
- The autograph is authenticated
- The card itself is NOT authenticated
These are often used because:
- They’re cheaper
- Bulk pricing applies
- PSA doesn’t inspect the card
👉 I personally avoid this option and prefer full authentication.
Why Dual Grading Often Makes Sense
1. You Might Be Leaving Money on the Table
- Vintage cards often grade better than expected
- Even modern cards can surprise you
I’ve submitted cards expecting a 6 or 7—and gotten a PSA 10.
You never know unless you grade.
2. Grading Adds Buyer Confidence
- Removes uncertainty
- Reduces questions
- Makes the listing easier to sell
Collectors like knowing exactly what they’re buying.
3. PSA Is Tougher Than It Used to Be
- PSA 10s are harder to hit
- PSA 9s carry more respect than before
- Even PSA 8s can add value in the right card
For certain cards, a PSA 8 is a strong grade, not a negative.
When I Don’t Grade the Card
There are limits.
I won’t grade a card if:
- It’s bent
- Creased
- Clearly damaged
- Guaranteed PSA 4–5 on a modern card
In those cases:
- Authentic slab makes more sense
- Low grades don’t add value
When I Don’t Grade the Autograph
Same logic applies:
- PSA 7 or 8 autograph grades rarely add value
- If it’s not a 9 or 10, I usually skip auto grading
Why This Matters for New Collectors
Many newer collectors:
- Don’t understand PSA grading options
- Assume an “Auto 10” means the card is a 10
- Want full transparency but don’t know how to ask for it
Dual grading solves that confusion.
Final Recommendation: Grade Smart, Not Blindly
In most cases, my current approach is:
- Authenticate everything
- Grade the card if it has a real chance
- Grade the autograph if it’s a 9 or 10
- Use Authentic only when grades clearly won’t help
There’s no one-size-fits-all rule—but understanding your options gives you an edge.
Final Thoughts
PSA gives you flexibility:
- Nothing graded
- Card only
- Autograph only
- Dual grading
Knowing when to use each option can:
- Increase resale value
- Improve buyer confidence
- Help you avoid leaving money on the table
Learn More
Visit PowerSportsMemorabilia.com
Follow on Instagram: @PowersAutographs
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Justin
January 30, 2026
What are your thoughts on grading a card/autograph with multiple signatures. I have leaf octography card. 8 separate signatures on one card. Seems like it would cost a fortune and be huge hassel to grade?